Oryza
sativa consists of two major varietal groups, Indica and Japonica (capitalized
when referring to varietal groups). Narrowing to the fragrant accessions of the
rice varieties, which have been identified and associated with the distinct
genetic subpopulations of rice originated from Japonica varieties. But which
isn't true, let’s see as to what gives the distinct fragrance to the indigenous
flavorful rice varieties- Ambemohar, Gobindo Bhog, Mullan Kazhama, Mushk Budji,
Seeraga samba and so on...
While
the study, published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,
confirms that basmati rice, long assumed to be an Indica variety, is actually
more closely related genetically to Japonica rice, thus follows all the other
fragrant indigenous rice varieties.
Aroma
in plants is a result of numerous volatile and semi volatile compounds present
which is the most attractive trait of the plant and it's parts. The biochemical
compound 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (2AP) has been found to be the most potent flavor
compound that gives unique fragrance to the rice varieties. Thus, the level of
2AP in rice serves as a key factor in determining the market price of fragrant
rice.
The
enzyme Betaine aldehyde dehydrogenase 2 (BADH2) has been reported to play a
role in the level of 2AP in rice during it's biosynthesis pathway. The loss of
BADH2 function is altered due to the abiotic stress factors (such as low water
availability (drought), excess water (flooding/waterlogging), extremes of
temperatures (cold, chilling, frost, heat), salinity over a continuous period
of time) that leads to the accumulation of 2AP resulting in an increase in rice
fragrance. Thus, this biochemical compound 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline ( 2AP), which
is an aroma compound that imparts a distinct customary flavor... Although many other compounds are also found
in the headspace of fragrant rice varieties, possibly due to secondary effects
related to the genetic background of the rice variety, 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline is
widely known to be the main cause of the distinctive fragrance.
This
unique allele of the gene in fragrant rice suggests one of several
possibilities: fragrant rice may have been the outcome of a separate
domestication event or may have arisen and evolved independently in a wild
relative or in a genetically or geographically isolated population, desirable
aroma of fragrant rice has selected plants with salt sensitivity.. whereas,
Basmati rice types have previously been described as being a genetically
distinct cluster that has a poor combining ability with other rice genotypes;
crosses with nonfragrant varieties often lead to low seed production or
sterility. Claiming the salt sensitivity, the cultivation of seeraga samba is
confined to the seaside areas lining the Nagapattinam, Tiruchirapalli,
Chidambaram, Mayiladuthurai, Karaikudi places of TN.
In
a comparative study, besides, 2-acetyl-1-pyrrolinethe (2AP), other biochemical
compounds alk-2-enals, alka(E)-2,4-dienals, 2-pentylfuran, 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline
and 2-phenylethanol have been reported as major contributors in total aroma
profiling of rice; 2-amino acetophenone and 3-hydroxy-
4,5-dimethyl-2(5H)-furanone (found in high levels in Basmati), and guaiacol,
indole and p-xylene in Black rice, were found to be mainly responsible for its
unique flavor.
The
strength of aroma greatly depends upon the concentration of 2AP in rice grain
tissues, its range of concentration in aromatic rice varieties varies from 6
ppb to 90 ppb for the milled and polished rice and 100 ppb to 200 ppb in brown
and hand pounded rice, depending upon the variety such Seeraga samba (in which
we tested).
Such
fragrant rice varieties improve with little clarified butter or ghee, meat fat,
as the 2AP compound accelerates in the presence of a fatty substance, that is
why the smell is so intense. And that accounts for all our childhood memories
of the smell of freshly-cooked rice.
Unlike
the Texmati, an artificially hybridized basmati rice and other improved rice
varieties or artificially flavor imparted rice.
About
a few indigenous fragrant rice varieties of India..
Basmati,
which is endemic to northern India, Pakistan and Iran, has been assumed to be
in the Indica group due to its characteristic long, thin grains and because it
is grown in India, where Indica varieties are widespread. Japonica varieties,
which include sushi rice, are widely grown in East and Southeast Asia and tend
to have shorter, stickier grains.
A short grain rice grown in Maharashtra, Ambemohar rice is popular for its quick-cooking characteristic and its beautiful aroma that is reminiscent of mango blossoms. Awarded a GI tag, Mulshi Ambemohar rice is especially famous in the state as an age-old traditional rice that was highly favoured by the Peshwa rulers.
A
rice with a rather unconventional taste and aroma, Mullan Kazhama is a fragrant
rice from Wayanad that is delicious in pal payasam and Malabar biriyani. A
variety whose faint but distinct fragrance permeates even the field, it’s now
cultivated by only a handful of organic paddy farmers in the lush terrain of
Kerala’s Wayanad district.
A
small-grained fragrant rice from West Bengal, categorized as a khaas dhan
(special grain) and is the chosen offering for Lord Krishna on Janmashthami,
thus its unique name. It tastes absolutely delectable when prepared as payesh
(the Bengali version of rice kheer), and is widely used for auspicious
offerings, pujas and festivals.
A
slender rice with a sublime scent, Seeraga Samba is a much-loved rice in Tamil
Nadu and is extensively used to make elaborate pulav during special occasions.
In fact, this prized ingredient is also the common thread among ambur biryani,
dindigul biryani to nei choru.
A
short-grain rice with a resplendent aroma, Mushk Budji is grown in the Kashmir
valley and was once a must-have on the marriage menus in the state. However,
years of obscurity and diminishing returns have pushed it to near extinction.
The good news is that the state’s agriculture department has started dedicated
efforts to encourage local cultivation of the unique rice and its re-entry into
commercial space.
A
fragrant rice whose name literally translates to ‘making the cook go mad’,
Radhuni Pagol is a culinary favourite in West Bengal but is little-known
outside the state. Light on the stomach, this rice is the perfect companion for
decadent gravies such as chingri malai curry and kosha mangsho. Interestingly,
radhuni is also the Bengali name of wild celery, a spice unique to the state’s
signature cuisine.
A fragrant variety of sticky black rice grown in the hills of Manipur, Chak Hao Amubi is packed with heart-healthy anthocyanins and has a slightly sweet, nutty flavour that is exemplified in the Manipuri black rice kheer. And what a kheer this is. As the milk boils and the kheer turns a beautiful shade of purple, a gentle aroma floats inside the house. Little wonder it's a staple delicacy at local feasts and festivities!
The
lesson is that while each culture and each rice variety represents something
unique, much of what we value most is shared by all.
MJ
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